From Colonial Tables to Upscale Global Restaurants: A Look at Indonesian Cuisine

More than 120 years ago, Eliza Ruhamah Scidmore, the first female writer and photographer and a board member of "National Geographic," documented her travels in Indonesia during the colonial era in her book "Java: Garden of the East." One of the most striking aspects for her was the "Rijsttafel" (rice table), a massive banquet featuring dozens of dishes, which was served at the "De Nederlanden" hotel in Batavia, the old name for Jakarta.

Scidmore described that feast as a "mountain of food," comprising a variety of fish, duck, chicken, beef, omelets, as well as steaks, salads, curries, sauces, spices, and tropical fruits. She believed that this lavish table could satisfy all guests.

However, these colonial banquets long shaped the dominant image of Indonesian cuisine in Western literature, while the true diversity of local cuisine remained relatively unknown, despite the fact that the Indonesian archipelago was home to the famous spice islands that ignited a global race in the 16th and 17th centuries for cloves and nutmeg. In recent decades, the world has begun to recognize popular Indonesian dishes such as "satay" and "nasi goreng," yet a new generation of chefs today seeks to elevate Indonesian cuisine to a different level by reintroducing its traditional flavors in upscale restaurants that rival the world's most famous dining destinations, while preserving its cultural roots.

Indonesian culinary expert William Wongso believes that the fundamental problem lies in the prevailing stereotype, stating: "There is still a belief that Indonesian food cannot be expensive, which is not true." He adds that the world's understanding of Indonesian cuisine remains "extremely superficial," despite the immense diversity that characterizes a country comprising thousands of islands and hundreds of local cultures. Jakarta has transformed into a hub for this renaissance, attracting chefs from across the country, each bringing flavors and culinary heritage from their regions.

While some open popular restaurants offering family recipes, others are reinventing Indonesian cuisine entirely by blending modern techniques with traditional ingredients. A modern example is the restaurant "August," which opened in 2021 by chefs Hans Christian and Budi Kahiadi, and is considered one of the prominent symbols of this movement.

The restaurant offers a tasting menu inspired by Indonesian cuisine, but it relies on contemporary cooking techniques and high-end service according to global standards, which has qualified it to enter the list of the top 50 restaurants in Asia for 2026. Christian confirms that the goal goes beyond mere cooking, saying: "For me, August represents the feelings of pride associated with telling our story, and a responsibility that is not limited to embracing our roots, but also rediscovering them."

The restaurant relies on remixing traditional Indonesian flavors and presenting them in unexpected forms. Its dishes include an innovative version of the Indonesian dish "Bebek" using white radish and a sweet and sour sauce.

It also serves Japanese fish accompanied by the traditional "Garang Asam" sauce from Central Java. Christian says that the restaurant started with a menu leaning towards European cuisine due to his academic background, but as the number of international guests increased, the demand for Indonesian flavors grew.

The renaissance is not limited to the "August" restaurant, as Jakarta has witnessed the opening of new restaurants such as "ESA", "Kindling", and "Selera", while regions like Bali, Yogyakarta, and Bandung have begun offering tasting experiences based on local products and agricultural seasons. It is not just about the price; in return, classic restaurants have reconsidered the way they tell the story of Indonesian cuisine.

At the "1945" restaurant inside the Fairmont Jakarta hotel, Chef Yubi Tomiro was inspired by the historical concept of "Rijsttafel", but he re-presented it as an educational journey. Tomiro says: "Our experience is designed to be a tasting journey through the archipelago, as we maintain the traditional character based on generosity and communal sharing, while simultaneously elevating the level of portions, presentation, and the sequence of dishes."

His menu includes dishes such as "Rendang" made with Wagyu beef and other recipes that revive traditional dishes with a modern perspective. Chefs emphasize that fine dining restaurants do not seek to replace local eateries, but rather to broaden the world's view of Indonesian cuisine.