"Heavenly Mountains" in Kyrgyzstan.. A destination that combines mountain trails and traditional yurts

Note from the editor: This article is by travel photographer and writer Stephen Liu. - Only a few steps remain over a snow-covered rocky slope to reach the summit of the pass, and when I finally crossed it, a panoramic view of mountain ranges appeared before me, forming a backdrop to an expanse of blue glacial waters. The surrounding peaks are known as the "Heavenly Mountains," which is a rough translation of the name "Tengir Too" in Kyrgyz and "Tian Shan" in Chinese.

From this vantage point, where I feel as if I am on top of the world, I can only agree with this name. The view overlooking Ala-Kol Lake is among the many stunning landmarks along the 110-kilometer hiking trail through Kyrgyzstan.

The Ak-Suu Transverse Trail, or "AST," encompasses one of the most beautiful parts of the Kyrgyz Tian Shan mountains. In the past, this trail was reserved for experienced hikers willing to carry heavy packs filled with supplies for days, including tents, food, and clothing.

Recently, thanks to pioneering initiatives to repurpose traditional round "Buz-Ay Yurt" tents used by seasonal nomadic herders and transform them into a relatively comfortable accommodation network in this remote location, it has become possible to traverse this trail with a small backpack containing supplies sufficient for just one day. I was filled with doubt during my descent from the mountain pass, wondering: Would I be able to find the camp if the rain continued?

As my doubts grew when darkness fell, I heard a voice calling my name from a high place: "Stephen!" An experience worth the cost led me to the tent, and within half an hour, I found tea ready and a plate of "Pilaf" in front of me, a hearty staple meal in Central Asia made of rice, meat, and vegetables.

As I removed my wet clothes, enjoying the warmth emanating from the place, I realized that the cost of staying in these tents is worth it. The trail begins in Jyrgalan, which is considered a center for eco-tourism in the far east of Kyrgyzstan, and passes through seven mountain passes with a total vertical elevation exceeding 21,600 feet (about 6,500 meters).

The trail embraces mountain lakes and waterfalls amidst the green "Jailoo" pastures, where shepherds graze their flocks during the summer. The journey is usually completed in nine days, with options for overnight stays in traditional "Yurt" tents along the route.

In 2024, Daniyar Alimbekov, a local trail guide turned entrepreneur, transformed his tourism company "Kyrgyz Life". Instead of just organizing exploratory teams that included guides, chefs, and porters, he worked on creating an integrated network of "Yurt" camps along the entire trail. Alimbekov says he was inspired to provide these accommodations after seeing the success of three camps that were already on the trail.

Initially, he thought of just adding three more sites, but he explained: "I later realized that the project would grow, and that I needed to cover the entire trail." The camps have now expanded to resemble small villages, and business continues to thrive despite some logistical challenges.

Unlike the vast majority of hiking trails in Kyrgyzstan, the "Ak-Su" trail allows hikers to experience the journey on their own, equipped with only a small backpack and trekking poles. Thanks to the provision of meals and shelter by the "Kyrgyz Life" Yurt camps, hikers only need additional clothing and a camera to make the most of their trip.

A teapot awaits you in the middle of the journey, and the difference is quite clear. Years ago, hikers would see only a few shepherds over the first five days or the last two days of the trail. But now I encounter many groups of walkers making their way to Lake "Ala-Kul."

In the absence of roads, lifts, and infrastructure in these remote areas, there is a general belief that finding such pristine nature has become a rare occurrence in popular tourist destinations. Behind the lake and the glacial "Takyr-Tor" River, the mountain peaks rising over 16,000 feet (approximately 4,800 meters) create a panoramic scene that remains etched in memory.

In one of the nearby "Yurt" camps, a warm teapot is always waiting for visitors. Tara Fenwick-Smith, an American traveler who completed the "AST" trail, says: "As someone who has had many hiking experiences around the world, I can say that this trail combines all the truly wonderful features."

She added: "Our experience was not limited to seeing stunning landscapes in the remote areas of Kyrgyzstan, but we also had the opportunity to learn about the hospitable culture that the locals are known for." Practical Information The "Karakol" Airport (IKG), which is a major hub for hiking trips, has been classified as an international airport after its long-awaited reopening in 2024. However, the flights currently operated are limited to domestic routes between the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek and the southern city of Osh.

In contrast, the nearby "Issyk-Kul" International Airport (IKU) receives seasonal flights from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Russia, while "Manas" International Airport (BSZ) in Bishkek has an extensive flight network connecting it to major airports in Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. The cost of a self-guided hiking trip that includes services (including accommodation in traditional "Yurt" tents and three meals a day) starts at approximately $64 per day when booked directly through "Kyrgyz Life."

Guided services and horses are also available at an additional cost if needed.