In Istanbul.. a hidden world behind the Grand Bazaar that has not changed for centuries

“This piece has been in the vault for a very long time,” said Umit Berksoy, 78, as he leaned over the table with his magnifying glass, gently running his fingers over a stone sparkling inside a white cloth. “You can’t find rubies this size anymore.”

Later, Berksoy, a veteran jeweler in the famous “Grand Bazaar” in Istanbul, Turkey, prepared to embark on a new creative journey in one of the oldest and most beautiful covered markets in the world. For centuries, this spot has transformed various raw materials into works of art, as master craftsmen from Turkey's minorities - Armenians, Greeks, Jews and Syriacs - have worked side by side, establishing solid partnerships that have helped keep the bazaar vibrant and sustainable.

The Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II, who was 21 years old at the time, laid the foundation for this common commercial world under one extended roof, after his conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Over the centuries, as it expanded and withstood major earthquakes, the “Grand Bazaar” developed into the heart of traditional trade in Turkey, and a vast field for training generations of craftsmen.

Over time, the intersecting alleys were spontaneously distributed according to traditional crafts, bearing the names of the professions that were practiced in them. But the stores have undergone changes in their character to keep pace with new trends and the tastes of foreign tourists.

Berksoy reported that the thick stone walls behind those facades guarded the spirit of the bazaar. As he made his way through the groups of tourists and street vendors, Berksoy pointed out the alleys, each of which was dedicated to a specific type of goods, such as jewelry, silverware, leather goods, and others.

While walking confidently through the “Nuru-Osmaniye” gate, which is one of 11 main entrances leading to a maze that includes 65 streets, 14 khans, and about 3,600 shops, he added that this vibrant world, which receives nearly 400,000 visitors daily, is only the surface. He stressed: "Underneath all this glamor and wealth, and in very small workshops, lies the true value and true beauty of this place."

In the heart of the bazaar, the jeweler stopped at one of the khans bearing a prominent inscription dating back to the Byzantine era. He pointed to the "Cevahir Bedesteni" building around which the market in its current form arose, saying: "This is the essence of the Grand Bazaar."

For half a century, Berksoy and his colleagues have traded in this bazaar with elegance, resolving their differences, building long-lasting partnerships and friendships, and passing on their expertise to new generations. The jeweler exchanged greetings with regular customers on every corner, before leaving the main building.

The first stop was a small shop named “Aphram,” after its Armenian founder, which has been selling raw gold and other precious metals since 1882. Next, he visited the “Epoque” antique shop, where time seems to have stopped since 1865.

Getvart Teminyan, 76, was a teenager when he started working at the store as an assistant. Today, he runs it alone, with the help of Ibrahim Khalil Issarach, 63, who was his former apprentice.

“Today, more people are selling their valuables because of the economic situation,” Teminyan said. “But every recession is followed by a recovery, and we will be here when that time comes as well.”

A scene from a James Bond movie Nearby, inside İkizler Han, a complex of jewelery workshops and wholesalers dating back to the 1940s, a 12-carat sapphire owned by Berksoy is preparing to move to a new owner, secured in its gold frame. Many precious stones were shaped in these workshops before they found their way to Barneys New York stores, before they closed, and their jewelry adorned the looks of a number of celebrities over the years.

For decades, Sivan Harounian, 54 and founder of one of the prestigious Sadekâr workshops in the Grand Bazaar, has spent his time transforming designs into pieces of precious metals, giving life to countless Berksoy creations. His modest goldsmithing workshop also witnessed the 46 years that Sivan spent mastering this craft.

Through the only window in the room, one can easily imagine actor Daniel Craig as James Bond riding his motorcycle across the tiled roofs, in the opening scene of the 2012 movie “Skyfall.” In this same room, his sons Arda (22 years old) and Aras (25 years old) had their first experience in this profession, when they were about ten years old.

Aras, a graduate of the Department of Statistics at Mimar Sinan University in Istanbul, introduced computer design techniques to the family project, putting his own touch on the products. Ruby stone setting Jewelry trade remains the most prominent business activity in the Grand Bazaar, where 57 expert craftsmen work to meet the needs of 532 merchants and shops specializing in gold and jewelry, according to a research conducted in 2017.

66-year-old Hrant Zorbas (a mihlama expert) framed the ring created by Sivan, following Berksoy's design. Zorbas placed a rectangular magnifying glass over his eyeglasses and began examining the polished frame with one hand, while rubbing the ruby ​​stone with the other.

Pointing to his 42-year-old son, Chant, who was sitting across from him, he said: “He likes to do this with a modern jeweller's microscope, but I prefer to see the cracks, blemishes and traces of setting directly with my own eyes.” Then Zorbas held the ring, contemplating its final appearance. The ruby ​​was set expertly in the frame, surrounded on either side by delicate rows of diamonds.

Berksoy then affirmed with admiration: “What factory-produced ring can match this beauty?