In New York... American designers challenge men at Fashion Week

Dubai, United Arab Emirates - Despite the shock the world is experiencing after the revelation of a new batch of Epstein files, New York Fashion Week provided a respite. During which American designers emerged, presenting fashions that women actually want to wear this season.

Most of them are far from the traditions of major European houses such as Dior or Chanel, but they have maintained a real relationship with their customers who find pleasure in carefully designed pieces, luxurious coats and practical dresses that give a feeling of luxury. American fashion is often considered the local commercial version of major European fashion and art, but it is taking a different path as men dominate the creative leadership of major international houses such as Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent and Gucci. Here, American designers emerge as a real alternative, as the wearability of their designs becomes a strength compared to fantasy fashion shows.

Hilary Taymor, designer of Collina Strada, said that the biggest brands are dominated by men, and only men design for women. She pointed out that the best-selling designs in her store in China Town are everyday pieces that are worn to go out to dinner or to have coffee in the morning, so she is fully aware of what women like. As for Daniela Kallmeier, the South African designer based in New York, this season she raised the level of sharp suits with elaborate pieces to harmonize with old finds such as jeweled cocktail pants, sweaters inspired by grandmothers, and jackets made of luxurious Italian fabrics, confirming that the customer is her constant source of inspiration.

The same spirit was evident in the Ashlyn House, through skirt suits with a distinctive texture and unique blouses. Characteristics of these designers: “These designers do not have any theatrical exaggeration on the catwalk, but rather clothes that actually reach women’s closets,” said Kaylyn Howorth, owner of the boutique Absolutely Fabrics.

She added: "These female designers are skilled at creating very sexy clothes, without any regard for the male gaze. These clothes were designed by women, for women to wear and for women to appreciate."

Fashion that is not concerned with the male gaze. It seems that what brings these designers together is their innovation without any consideration for the male gaze, as a kind of celebration of women in front of other women through an elegant and strange-textured outfit, a striking antique piece, or luxurious trousers. The idea is not to create purely feminist fashion, but to cater to a world in which women can wear what they want: clothes that combine fantasy (fringes, playful necklaces, transparent dresses) and the practicality of modern women's life.

This ability to blend fantasy and realism explains the resurgence of Tory Burch and Anna Sui, which have been operating for decades and remain independent. Birch, with women at the core of its brand, showcased woven opera coats in rich colors with matching boots, jeweled sweaters with high-slit pencil skirts, and warm fabrics in a luxurious style.

As for the “Anna Sui” collection, it was characterized by greater imagination, with fur-trimmed brocades, chain dresses, and pink plaid suits, which are pieces that encourage women to explore new ways of dressing, search for vintage pieces, and follow the movies and music that inspire them. Sui's philosophy of searching for everything new and presenting it to the public has become a source of inspiration for multiple generations of women.

Distinctive Artistic Visions This season, two brands presented two distinctive artistic visions to the fashion audience, showing a more subtle way to provoke thinking among the audience: The Latta Eckhouse brand, which was founded about 15 years ago, reflected a shift in the culture that was known as “hipster”, from a warm and playful style to a more edgy and elegant formulation. Her show at New York Week featured flowing fabrics and masculine outerwear, with fur pieces on jersey dresses that wrapped around bodies of different sizes, highlighting the combination of strength and femininity.

As New York's intelligentsia turned toward the austere glamor of Manhattan rather than dreamy Brooklyn, the show expressed an alternative culture charged with audacity and protection, where the bold dress became a woman's armor. On the other hand, Rachel Scott was inspired by the works of the Afro-Cuban painter Wifredo Lam, showcasing his influence in exploring the cultural strangeness of black culture and religion.

His rich color palette: deep crimson reds, bleached grays, and powder blues were used on embellished skirts, novelty dresses, and trophy coats. Not only did she reproduce his works, but she also incorporated spiritual and artistic symbols into her own fabrics, such as organza and crochet, combining excitement and sophistication without excess, to make a rare statement in a world of fashion obsessed with consumer pieces.

Between politics and fashion The commercial focus of the New York shows had an unexpected impact on the political nature of the week, as the Council of Fashion Designers of America teamed up with the American Civil Liberties Union to support the ICE OUT campaign, and some attendees and designers wore campaign badges on the lapels of their jackets. However, political statements were less harsh compared to previous seasons, which seemed positive, as many designers exploited the political platform to repeat previously agreed-upon positions by attendees, rather than presenting new messages or real challenges, and these positions rarely related to the clothes themselves.